Discovering the Emerald Isle: An Unforgettable Journey Through Ireland’s Heart and Hearth

Sláinte! That’s ‘Cheers’ in Irish Gaelic, literally translating to “Health.” So here’s to your health, good eats, and the wonderful friends made along the way!

Last April, I embarked on a truly fantastic journey, a long-held dream finally realized: a visit to the captivating island of Ireland. For as long as I can remember, the allure of Europe, with its rich history, vibrant cultures, and stunning landscapes, has pulled at my heart. And among all its treasures, Ireland always shone brightest, a beacon of emerald green calling me home. To say that I simply fell in love with Ireland would be a profound understatement; it was an instant, deep connection that has resonated with me every single day since.

Indeed, for nearly a year now, the thought of relocating to Ireland has occupied my mind almost constantly. The entire countryside, with its rolling hills, ancient stone walls, and dramatic coastlines, is absolutely breathtaking. Each town I visited felt like stepping into a postcard, completely picturesque with its colorful facades, cozy pubs, and cobblestone streets. But beyond the visual splendor, it was the people who truly captured my heart. Everyone I encountered was incredibly warm, kind, and welcoming, possessing a genuine spirit of hospitality that made me feel utterly at home. I can vividly envision myself building a life there, possibly for the rest of my days. While I would undoubtedly miss my frequent visits to my other beloved spot in Waco, TX, I believe the extraordinary beauty, culture, and community of Ireland would make it a trade-off well worth making.

Exploring Ireland’s Iconic Cities and Landscapes

My adventure unfolded as part of an incredible tour group, allowing us to traverse five vibrant cities and countless miles of mind-blowing, diverse countryside. Seriously, the landscapes were nothing short of amazing, offering a new vista of wonder around every bend. Our journey began in the bustling capital, Dublin, where we delved into the spiritual grandeur of St. Patrick’s Cathedral, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture with centuries of history embedded in its stones. We then immersed ourselves in the iconic Guinness Storehouse, an essential pilgrimage for any visitor to Ireland. More than just a brewery tour, it’s an immersive experience that celebrates the craft and heritage of Ireland’s most famous stout, revealing why it remains the biggest employer in the entire country.

Next, we ventured north to Belfast, Northern Ireland, where we had the unique opportunity to explore the incredible Titanic Belfast museum. This wasn’t just any museum; it was an exhilarating, deeply moving experience that brought the story of the Titanic to life in astonishing detail. From the ship’s conception and construction in the very docks where it stood to its tragic maiden voyage, the museum offers an interactive journey, complete with a Disneyesque ride that transports you through the shipyard. It was, honestly, the most engaging and fun museum I have ever seen. Coincidentally, our visit fell on the anniversary of the Titanic’s sinking, and we were privileged to witness a poignant memorial service held at the city hall, adding an unexpected layer of solemnity and reflection to our visit.

Our Irish odyssey continued to the medieval charm of Kilkenny, where we marveled at its impressive castle and historic churches, soaking in the palpable sense of history that permeates its streets. A highlight here was a visit to the Smithwick’s Brewery, where I discovered Smithwick’s Red Ale, which quickly became my favorite ale of the entire trip – a true taste of local Irish craftsmanship. On our way to Killarney, a town synonymous with natural beauty, I embraced the ancient tradition of kissing the legendary Blarney Stone at Blarney Castle. Navigating the extremely tight corridors of the castle itself was an adventure, leading to the thrilling moment of leaning backward over the battlements to bestow a kiss and, according to legend, gain the gift of eloquence. Killarney itself charmed us with a traditional Jaunting Car ride through the breathtaking Killarney National Park, guided by jovial locals who shared stories and laughter. We also embarked on a spooky ghost tour, adding a dash of mystery to our evening, and used Killarney as our perfect starting point for the world-renowned scenic drive around the majestic Ring of Kerry.

Coastal Wonders and Island Histories: Cliffs of Moher and the Aran Islands

From the verdant landscapes of Kerry, our route led us along Ireland’s stunning west coast towards Galway, with a pivotal stop at the awe-inspiring Cliffs of Moher. Standing atop these magnificent cliffs, soaring 900 feet above the crashing Atlantic waves, is an experience that truly takes your breath away. The sheer scale and raw beauty of this natural wonder left an indelible mark on me; to date, it remains the most amazing natural spectacle I have ever laid eyes on, a testament to the untamed power and artistry of nature. Afterwards, we explored the bohemian charm of Galway city, with its lively streets, vibrant arts scene, and welcoming pubs, before taking a scenic boat ride to Inis Mór, the largest of the remote and rugged Aran Islands. Here, we stepped back in time, exploring ancient fortresses and the remains of an 8th-century monastery, feeling the profound weight of history in every stone. This remarkable island is crisscrossed by over 3,000 miles of dry-stone walls, a poignant reminder of the islanders’ resilience. These stones had to be painstakingly removed from the earth during the devastating Potato Famine, a grim necessity to create fields for survival and, heartbreakingly, to bury the bodies of the more than one million people who perished during that tragic period. Witnessing these walls, stretching across the landscape, was a powerful, humbling experience, connecting me deeply to Ireland’s past.

The journey culminated in a beautiful farewell dinner, a chance to reflect on the incredible experiences shared and the new friendships forged over our nine days together. I had the privilege of meeting over 30 new people, and among them, a couple who have truly become lifelong friends and trusted travel buddies. We’ve already had the joy of reuniting since our Irish adventure, a testament to the deep bonds created through shared discovery and unforgettable moments. Ireland didn’t just offer sights; it offered connections.

A Culinary Journey Through Traditional Irish Flavors

Throughout the trip, as you might well imagine, I immersed myself in sampling all of the fantastic food Ireland had to offer. My mission was clear: to seek out and savor the most traditional menu items I could find, eager to taste the authentic flavors of the Emerald Isle. And I was not disappointed! Hearty dishes like Bangers and Mash, warming Stews, comforting Shepherd’s Pie, creamy Potato Soup, and wholesome Soda Bread were found in great supply, each offering a delicious glimpse into Irish culinary heritage. But it was a dish I had never truly appreciated before, Boiled Bacon and Cabbage, that unexpectedly became my new favorite. Every town seemed to have its own unique version of these classics, and you could truly taste the individual twists and generations of tradition infused into each preparation. Beyond the food, I enjoyed my fair share of rich Guinness and soul-warming Irish Coffee. And if you ever find yourself in Ireland, you absolutely MUST try Murphy’s Ice Cream. They boast an array of wonderfully unique and sometimes quirky flavors that you simply won’t find anywhere else, especially not in the States. And yes, I made it my personal mission to taste them all – each one was absolutely delicious!

Mastering the Art of Boiled Bacon and Cabbage

Let’s talk more about the Boiled Bacon and Cabbage, because I became quite obsessed with it. I found myself ordering it every time I spotted it on a menu, eager to compare and contrast each establishment’s rendition. One evening, during a particularly lovely dinner, I had the pleasure of sitting beside a really nice couple, with whom I conversed all night. It was from them that I learned a fascinating culinary distinction: Corned Beef and Cabbage, a staple of St. Patrick’s Day celebrations in America, is actually a purely American dish. In Ireland, the traditional meal to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day is, in fact, Boiled Bacon and Cabbage. This revelation ignited a new culinary quest within me.

This year, fueled by my newfound knowledge and delicious memories, I decided I was going to try my hand at making it myself. My initial quest involved searching high and low for a proper cut of Irish Bacon. To my dismay, I couldn’t find anything that didn’t require importing it at a cost well over $100 – a price tag I simply couldn’t justify for a first attempt! Yikes! However, through careful research, I discovered that a pork loin roast, specifically one with a little bit of fat on top and sides, is a suitable cut for this dish, as it closely mimics the characteristics of traditional Irish boiling bacon. The real key, I learned, is that even though “Irish Boiling Bacon” is nothing like the crispy strips of bacon we know in America, it is still cured to some extent, which imparts a distinct flavor and texture.

So, as they would say in Ireland, I “gave it a crack.” Using what I had available and learning along the way, I prepared my own version. While the result wasn’t quite as tender as the melt-in-your-mouth dishes I experienced in Ireland, it was still undeniably good and deeply satisfying. This initial attempt has only fueled my determination. I plan to continue working on this recipe, experimenting with different curing methods for the pork loin to achieve that perfect tenderness and draw out even more authentic flavor. My goal is to get it as close as I possibly can to the delicious, comforting dishes I savored in the homeland!

Although my homemade Boiled Bacon and Cabbage was good, I acknowledge there’s still some work to be done to refine it. The recipe I followed suggested serving it with a creamy parsley sauce and mashed potatoes, a combination that was really delicious, though I felt it needed just a little more depth of flavor. However, it’s important to remember that traditionally, this is a very lightly flavored dish. Historically, salt was a precious commodity, and much of the cooking involved extensive boiling. In that context, I believe I captured the essence of a basic, authentic version quite well. Yet, I’m eager to evolve it, to “update” it, and truly infuse it with a bit more contemporary flavor without losing its traditional soul. This ongoing culinary project keeps my Irish memories vivid and my taste buds excited!

A Taste of Home: Perfecting Bangers and Mash

In addition to my bacon and cabbage endeavor, I also made a batch of Bangers and Mash that turned out just as wonderfully as some of the best I enjoyed in Ireland. This dish truly embodies Irish comfort food – it’s hearty, satisfying, and you really can’t go wrong with it. For my rendition, I boiled the sausages with some thinly sliced onions in a bottle of Smithwick’s Red Ale, the very same ale that became my favorite during my trip! I was thrilled to find it available here this year, making the experience all the more authentic. The sausages and onions came out fantastically; the beer imparted a rich, savory depth, and the onions, naturally caramelizing as they cooked down in the ale, were absolutely delicious – sweet, tender, and deeply flavorful. It was a perfect recreation of those cozy pub meals.

As St. Patrick’s Day approaches, I wish y’all the happiest of celebrations. Be sure to enjoy a green beer or two for me, and savor the spirit of the Emerald Isle wherever you are.

Sláinte!

Until next time, happy cooking!

Kendell